Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at Balenciaga was nothing short of a fashion moment — a poetic bridge between the house’s storied past and a fresh new chapter. Drawing inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archives while acknowledging the foundation laid by Demna, Piccioli’s first collection for the brand radiated reverence, artistry, and emotion.
The show took place at Kering’s historic Laennec headquarters in Paris — the same venue where Demna’s retrospective exhibition was held in July. With 560 guests in attendance, the front row shimmered with stars including Meghan Markle, Lauren Sánchez, and Georgina Rodriguez. Longtime Balenciaga ambassador Isabelle Huppert sat alongside new faces familiar with Piccioli’s Valentino era — Anne Hathaway, Simone Ashley, and Shailene Woodley. (Notably missing was Nicole Kidman, formerly a Balenciaga ambassador, who is reportedly now aligned with Chanel.)
A Couture Hand for Ready-to-Wear
The collection opened with a reimagining of Cristóbal’s iconic tubular Sack dress, followed by sculptural tailoring, bursts of colour, and an array of new accessories — most notably, the Bolero handbag. Piccioli’s deft touch with couture was evident, blending precision with emotion.
“I didn’t want to simply return to the roots,” Piccioli explained during a Saturday preview. “I wanted to study the archives and find my own way. Cristóbal was an architect, a sculptor, a painter — he always placed the body at the centre of his research.”
Piccioli’s arrival at Balenciaga in May 2025, a year after stepping down from Valentino, marked a shift from Demna’s deconstructive aesthetic to something softer yet equally profound. “I wanted to embrace the past and honour what Nicolas [Ghesquière] and Demna created before me,” he told Vogue Runway. “Balenciaga’s story is one of evolution, and I see this not as a game of chairs, but a passing of the torch.”
Heartbeats and Heritage
The show invitation came in Balenciaga’s signature grey box — inside, a Walkman playing the sound of a beating heart. It could easily have been mistaken for a Demna-era invite, but this heartbeat, as Piccioli revealed, was his own. “This is my deeply personal approach to Balenciaga,” he said.
As for the familiar grey packaging, Piccioli noted: “I didn’t want to change the colour, the logo — I feel at home here. I don’t need to alter the font to prove I belong.”
While Kering’s Q2 2025 report cited a 16% dip in revenue across its “other houses” division, Balenciaga remains a strong performer, with €1.66 billion in sales in 2024 — a far cry from €360 million in 2015 when Demna first took charge. After the show, Kering’s new CEO Luca de Meo congratulated Piccioli backstage — a gesture symbolic of renewed optimism for the brand’s future.
The Industry Reacts
Derek Blasberg, writer and fashion commentator:
“There was so much love in that room — and Pierpaolo felt it when he took his bow. His use of colour was extraordinary, and the subtle nods to Cristóbal, Nicolas, and Demna made it feel like a true continuum of Balenciaga’s legacy.”
Claire Thomson-Jonville, Vogue France:
“It was a masterful, contemporary Balenciaga infused with the best of Pierpaolo’s world. The gowns were sublime yet modern, the denim surprisingly elegant. It felt edgy but refined — something you’d actually want to wear.”
Alix Morabito, Galeries Lafayette:
“Pierpaolo immersed himself deeply in the archives. You could see Cristóbal’s influence in the volumes, Nicolas’s in the City bag and hats, and Demna’s in the styling details. It was a thoughtful blend of all three.”
Tim Lim, Meta Media Holdings:
“The show balanced Pierpaolo’s signature romanticism with Balenciaga’s edge. Meghan Markle’s presence signalled just how much this new era resonates beyond fashion.”
Yumi Shin, Bergdorf Goodman:
“Pierpaolo designs with heart. Every look had controlled volume, balance, and emotion. His humanistic approach gives his fashion soul — it moves you.”
Law Roach, stylist:
“I loved the respect for legacy — the nods to Demna, the bursts of colour that are so Pierpaolo. It was a perfect meeting of past, present, and future.”
Brigitte Chartrand, Net-a-Porter:
“His tailored black looks were breathtaking. Pierpaolo managed to honour Cristóbal while introducing a fresh new vision for Balenciaga.”
A New Chapter for Balenciaga
With this debut, Pierpaolo Piccioli has done more than take the reins — he’s reignited the spirit of Balenciaga. His first collection feels like a love letter to the house’s history, interpreted through empathy, craftsmanship, and emotion. It wasn’t just a show — it was a heartbeat marking the start of a new era.
